Reusable Fabric Bowl Covers

A fun and customizable way to ditch the plastic wrap! These make great gifts and look good in any kitchen! 

What you’ll need: 

-Fabric 
-Thread 
-String 
-String stopper (optional) 
-Bowl (to trace) 
-Chalk 
-Scissors 
-Sewing machine 
-Ruler 
-Paperclip or safety pin
-Sewing pins

Step 1: Decide on what fabric you would like to use and be sure to wash it before use.  I personally like to use 100% cotton since I know food will around it. Plus it’s technically compostable at the end of its life too. You can use the same fabric for both the top and bottom or you could use a contrasting color. 

Step 2: Place your fabric facing down and be sure to lay both pieces of fabric over one another. Trace the bowl on the back side of your fabric with your chalk. 

Step 3: Now you need to add an extra 2 inches to the entire circle. (This extra allowance is important) I like to measure every few inches or so then trace the circle with my chalk. 

Step 4: Pin both pieces of fabric together and cut out only the furthest circle outline 

Step 5: Unpin the fabric and decide what side you want to be on the top. Next we need to make a button hole before we sew anything else. This is probably the hardest step of this tutorial. I won’t go into detail on how to make a button hole because it will be different for everyone. I suggest to google your sewing machine + how to make a button hole. It’s best to practice a few times on a scrap piece. For me I have a singer heavy duty and I keep the botton hole at 1/3 inch, with the tension on 3, width at 5 and length at 1/2. It’s important to make the button hole hortizonal and not vertically! You just have to place the fabric correctly to make it hortizonal.  Make the button hole 1 inch from the side and ONLY on one piece of fabric NOT two. Also if you’re using a print like mine I would try to line up the print with the button hole facing at the bottom. 

Step 6: Now time to sew! Be sure to switch over your machines settings to make a basic stitch. Make sure each circle’s fabric is facing each other (the inside should be facing out.)  You’ll need to measure the distance from under your button hole to the edge of the fabric. Mine is at 1/2 inch. That is an important step because you need to have the button hole above the stitch line!  I suggest starting at the OPPOSITE end of your button hole. Start with a basic stitch for the entire circle, however you need to leave at 2 inch gap between starting and stopping. Make sure you use a forward and backwards stitch at the beginning and end. I find it easiest to just line up the presser foot with the edge of the fabric for a consistent stitch.

Step 7: Now time to flip the fabric. Slowly push your fingers through the 2 inch opening. You’ll need to run your fingers along the inside to make sure to lays flats. If you find the hole is to small you can always use the back end of a wooden spoon to push it through and smooth the sides. Your button hole should be on the front side of the fabric now. 

Step 8: Iron the circle. I feel this step is really important to make sure the fabric lays flat against one another.  If you still feel like it’s not laying flat then take your wooden spoon handle and try flatten out the edges again.

Step 9: Make an invisible stitch on the 2 inch opening. Here is a good video on how to do that if you’re not familiar.

Step 10: Now we need to sew an additional basic stitch to form a ‘pocket’ for the string. I suggest starting to sew at the OPPOSITE side of the button hole because sometimes it’s hard to line up the stitch line. (that way it is hidden to the back.)  It depends on your size of button hole, but I made my pocket 1/2 inch from the button hole. Make the stitch from start to finish, making sure to do a forward and backwards stitch. I typically eye ball this. As long as you’re keeping the presser foot in the same spot you should be fine. If you really want to be precise I would suggest measuring out the stitch with your chalk beforehand, then your presser foot has something to stay on. 

Step 11: Time to add the string. Again I personally like to use 100% cotton string. Tie one end to a safety pin or paper clip. Then slowly push it through the pocket you just sewed. 

Step 12: (Optional) I like to use a toggle stopper to make closing the string easier. However it’s not necessary, you could always just tie the string. 

Step: 13: Trim the ends of the string and tie a small knot on each end so they don’t unravel.

Step 14: Add to your bowl and adjust the string with the toggle cord or by tying the string. If you made constracting sides of the fabric you technically have a reversible fabic bowl! 

The more often you make these, the easier it gets! I made about a dozen of these for holiday gifts this past year and once you get the hang of it I could make one in 15 minutes.  If giving for any gifts I would leave a note for use and care for the recipient. 

If you enjoyed this tutorial, you may also like my DIY beeswax wrap tutorial as well!  Check it out here.

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